Tokyo with a toddler: trains, parks and a pace that works

Where to stay with a toddler

Pick a base near a major station on a line you will use often, ideally with an elevator exit close to the hotel. A short walk from the station matters more than a famous neighborhood, because you will make that walk with a tired child several times a day.

Shinjuku and Shibuya put you on many lines and close to big parks, but the stations are huge and crowded. Tokyo Station and Nihonbashi are calmer and handy for day trips by shinkansen. Ueno is good for the zoo and museums. Odaiba and the bay area are quieter, with wide walkways and indoor play, but you will spend more time traveling to the rest of the city.

Hotel rooms are small. Look for a family or quad room, an apartment hotel, or ask in advance whether a crib is available. Many hotels can provide one if you request it early.

Trains with a stroller

• Avoid weekday rush hours, early morning and early evening. Trains are pressed full and there is no room for an open stroller.
• Most big stations have elevators, but they can be at one end of the platform or at a different exit. Look for the elevator symbol on platform signs and allow extra time.
• A compact stroller that folds with one hand makes everything easier, from narrow ticket gates to escalators where you will want to carry it folded.
• Children under 6 ride JR and most other trains free when traveling with a paying adult, as long as they do not take their own reserved seat. There is a limit on how many free children each adult can bring.
• A rechargeable IC card for each adult saves fumbling with tickets at every gate.

Baby rooms, supplies and taxis

Department stores usually have a baby room on the floor that sells children's clothes, with changing tables, private nursing rooms and sometimes hot water. Large stations and shopping centers often have them too. Convenience stores carry diapers, wipes, baby food and snacks, so you can pack light and buy as you go.

Taxis are legally exempt from child seat rules and usually do not carry car seats. If you want one, look for a service that books a child seat in advance or bring a lightweight travel seat. Many families use taxis for short hops in the evening when everyone is tired.

Parks and places toddlers love

• Yoyogi Park: open lawns for running, next to Meiji Jingu. Good for a picnic and an easy morning.
• Shinjuku Gyoen: a calm, well kept garden with wide paths, lawns and a greenhouse. It has an entry fee and its own hours, so check before you go.
• Ueno Park and Ueno Zoo: the zoo works well for small children, with a petting area and plenty of animals at toddler eye level. Check the zoo's site for which animals are on view before you go.
• Showa Kinen Park: a huge park in Tachikawa, about an hour west by train, with big play areas and bounce domes. Plan a full day.
• Indoor options for rain or heat: aquariums, the bay area malls in Odaiba, and play spaces inside department stores and kids' museums.

Tokyo Disney Resort with a small child

Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea are in Urayasu, east of central Tokyo. Children 3 and under enter free. Tokyo Disneyland has more rides for very young kids. Weekends and school holidays are very crowded, so pick a weekday and check the official site for current ticket rules and attraction lineups.

Jet lag, seasons and the toddler body clock

Coming from North America, toddlers often wake very early for the first few days. Use that: be at a park when it opens, have an early lunch and nap, and keep evenings short. Get outside in daylight in the morning to help everyone adjust.

Spring and fall are the most comfortable seasons. Summer is hot and humid, with a rainy season in early summer, so plan indoor afternoons. Cherry blossom season and Golden Week bring big crowds to parks and trains.